Nail extension gel is made up of a combination of polymer resins and photoinitiators. When these are exposed to UV or LED light, they cure and form a surface that is both flexible and durable. The process of molecular cross-linking that happens during the curing stage is what determines how strongly the gel will stick to the nail at the beginning. High-quality nail extension gels are able to keep 85% to 90% of their structural integrity even with daily use. However, environmental factors such as being exposed to water and changes in temperature can gradually break down the polymers in the gel. That's why it's really important to seal the cuticle line properly if you want the nail extensions to last longer.
According to nail technicians, the way you prepare the nail surface before applying the gel extension is crucial. In fact, it accounts for about 70% of how long the gel extension will last. First, you need to dehydrate the natural nail plate. This helps to remove any oils that could get in the way of the gel bonding properly. Then, you should buff the nail precisely to create tiny grooves on the surface. These grooves provide a mechanical way for the gel to stick better. After that, applying a primer layer is important. The primer layer balances the pH of the nail surface, which ensures the best possible chemical bonding. When applying the gel, it's better to apply thin and even layers because they will cure more completely compared to thick layers. Also, the curing time needs to match the specifications of the lamp you're using. If the gel is under-cured, it will have soft spots, and if it's over-cured, it will become brittle.
There are some daily habits that can help make your gel nail extensions last longer. For example, wearing gloves when you do household chores can reduce the amount of time your nails are submerged in water by about 40%. This significantly slows down the hydrolysis process, which is what weakens the connection between the gel and the nail. Using oil-free products to moisturize your cuticles can prevent the gel from lifting at the proximal fold. And avoiding direct heat exposure is also important as it helps to keep the gel flexible. If you type a lot, it's a good idea to keep your nail extensions shorter to reduce the stress on them. You can also do a weekly touch-up using non-acetone cleansers. This will remove any surface contaminants without damaging the cured gel.
Environmental factors can have a big impact on how well your gel nail extensions perform. For instance, when the humidity level is above 60%, water vapor can penetrate more easily through the tiny gaps in the gel matrix. Seasonal changes also require you to adjust your maintenance routine. In winter, the dry air can make the gel more brittle, and in summer, the high humidity increases the risk of the gel lifting. If you go swimming in saltwater or chlorinated pools, you should rinse your nails immediately to prevent the gel from degrading due to the chemicals. Exposure to UV light from the sun can cause some gel formulations to gradually turn yellow. So, applying a product with SPF is really important to keep the color of the gel stable.
Sometimes, gel nail extensions may fail prematurely, and there can be several reasons for this. If the gel is lifting at the stress zone, it usually means that the surface preparation wasn't done properly or that too much pressure was applied during the shaping process. Chipping at the free edges is often caused by not having enough apex structure or by applying the gel too thinly. If the whole nail extension detaches, it could be because there was moisture contamination during the application process or because the products used were not compatible with each other. When the extensions show signs of structural compromise, it's essential to have them removed professionally to prevent damage to the nail plate. Rapid temperature changes can cause thermal shock, which is one of the most common reasons for sudden failures. This highlights the importance of gradually getting your nails used to different temperatures.
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